Paris may shine brightest along the Champs-Élysées and in the Christmas markets, but as locals, we like to step a little off the familiar routes, where you’ll discover a quieter, more enchanting side of the city in winter. Away from the tourist hotspots, neighbourhoods like the Butte-Aux-Cailles, Belleville, and the Canal St Martin take on a magical glow — twinkling lights reflected in café windows, locals bundled up with bags of festive treats, and small boutiques preparing for the holiday season. These strolls offer a chance to experience authentic Paris at Christmas, where creativity thrives, traditions linger, and the city feels wonderfully lived-in. Wrap up warm, follow your curiosity, and let us guide you through the Paris that Parisians love most in December.
1. A Hidden Village in the City: Butte-Aux-Cailles (13th Arr.)
If you're looking for a festive stroll that feels worlds away from the city’s grand boulevards, make your way to la Butte-aux-Cailles. Tucked on a gentle hill in the 13th arrondissement, this little neighbourhood has the charm of a provincial village — cobblestones underfoot, strings of warm lights overhead, and a lovely calm in the winter air.
Start your walk around Place Paul-Verlaine, then wander along Rue des Cinq-Diamants, where independent boutiques and cafés spill a soft glow onto the street. In December, the mood is intimate and neighbourly, indeed most times of the year it feels like a village hidden within the city.
Make sure to pause at the colourful street art that decorates many of the façades. The Butte Aux Cailles is one of the best areas in the city for Parisian street art, and if you'd like to learn more from an expert guide and passionate street art lover, who was also a street artist himself, join our tour! When the chill catches up with you, slip into one of the cozy cafés for a chocolat chaud or a glass of wine at Le Temps des Cerises before continuing on your winter wander.
📍Metro: Corvisart
2. Reflections of the Season: Canal Saint-Martin (10th/11th Arr.)
A winter walk along the Canal Saint-Martin is a Parisian favourite. The bare branches arch quietly over the water, fairy lights twinkle on the iron footbridges, and the cafés lining the canal light up the pavements. This is the perfect neighbourhood for holiday shopping with the locals — the area around the canal is home to concept stores, vintage finds, and independant boutiques that make browsing a pleasure, along with a great selection of cafés and small restaurants.
Don’t miss the pop up shop at Le Comptoir Général, a wonderful concept store for clothes and jewellery made by local designers, Artazart for fantastic art and design books, or stroll down the rue Beaurepaire for a great selection of local boutiques.
If you're in the mood for a pastry, there is of course Du Pain & Des Idées for a delicious pastry pick-me-up, and our favourite Sain on the rue Alibert. For something sweet, Liberté bakery does excellent festive pastries. On a sunny day in December, the canal feels like a cinematic winter set — peaceful, a little romantic, and distinctly Parisian. Wrap up warm and eat your pastry by the waterside!
If it's coffee you're after, we recommend one of the original and best Ten Belles, or the newer and very popular Buddy Buddy. If matcha is your thing, head towards République and pay a visit to Umami. And if you're in the mood for brunch, it's hard to beat Holybelly.
And if you want to end your day with an apéritif, we recommend local favourites Chez Prune, or L'Atmosphere or Les Enfants Perdus on the rue des Recollets.
📍 Metro: République / Jacques-Bonsergent
3. Chic & Artistic: The Haut-Marais (3rd Arr.)
The Haut Marais feels like one of Paris’s most effortlessly cool neighbourhoods — a mix of small ateliers, concept stores, cosy cafés, and quiet little streets strung with lights. It’s the perfect place for a slow, stylish Christmas-season stroll.
This is prime territory for picking up gifts, particularly clothes: browse Merci for design objects and fashion finds, stop into The Broken Arm for curated high-end pieces, or explore Maison Standards and Sézane (L’Appartement) for timeless Parisian wardrobe staples.
And if you love vintage clothes, we highly recommend you stroll the length of the wonderful rue de Turenne, where you'll find an amazing selection of curated and high quality shope. There is often a good selection of pop-up shops here too, particularly at this time of year.
Don't miss the oldest market in Paris, the Marché des Enfants Rouges on the rue de Bretagne, it's a great place for a cozy lunch.
When your hands get cold, duck into Fragments for a world-class espresso, or try the hot chocolate at Café Charlot, a quintessential Parisian brasserie that feels especially magical at Christmas. Le Mary Celeste is perfect for a warming drink and small plates as the afternoon turns dusky.
📍 Metro: Arts et Métiers
4. Montmartre’s Serene Side (18th Arr.)
Few neighbourhoods sparkle at Christmastime quite like Montmartre. With its cobbled lanes, twinkling garlands, and village atmosphere, this hilltop quarter feels made for winter wandering. Step away from the crowds around Sacré-Cœur, and local Montmartre can be wonderfully cosy — full of small, independent shops and cafés where you can warm up on a chilly winters day.
Start around Place des Abbesses, the true heart of “village Montmartre.” If you're looking to dress like a local, try Chinemachine for vintage treasures, or Make My D... for Parisian casual chic. Don’t skip Marché de Noël des Abbesses if your timing is right — this small Christmas market is one of our favourites, and a world away from the huge commercial markets in the city centre.
When it’s time to take a break, Montmartre does winter cafés exceptionally well. Try Les 5 Marches for indulgent brunch, La Bossue for its famously cosy cakes and pastries, or Café Tabac for classic Parisian charm. For something sweet, pop into Aux Merveilleux de Fred where swirling mountains of meringue and cream feel very festive!
Continue your stroll toward Place Dalida and the winding backstreets of the Butte. Here, artist workshops and tiny independent galleries create a sense of Montmartre’s bohemian past lingering just beneath the surface — especially atmospheric in winter’s early dusk. If you're looking for a unique gift, the studios around Rue Lepic and Rue Véron often have small artworks and prints for sale.
Pass by the Place du Tertre once the day turns dark; despite its reputation for crowds of tourists (which is well deserved), the square is one of those must-see Parisian spots, and glows beautifully at Christmas, with painters working even in the chill. Continue towards the front of the Sacré Coeur for breathtaking views over the city.
If you'd like a more in-depth guide to Montmartre in any season, check out our blog post here!
📍 Metro: Abbesses
5. Medieval Corners & Candlelit Shops: Village Saint-Paul (4th Arr.)
Tucked away in the heart of the Marais, Village Saint-Paul is a series of quiet, interconnected courtyards lined with antique shops, artisan boutiques, and tiny galleries. During the festive season, the cobbled lanes take on a storybook charm, with twinkling lights strung overhead and shop windows brimming with one-of-a-kind holiday treasures.
This is the perfect spot to hunt for unique gifts — vintage finds, handmade jewellery, and art pieces that won’t be spotted anywhere else. Pop into a cosy café for a warm chocolate or seasonal pastry, and watch the Parisian winter light dance off centuries-old façades. For a truly off-the-beaten-path Christmas experience, take your time exploring this charming village and let the calm of Saint-Paul envelop you.
And while you're there, don't miss a couple of real gems nearby. The stunning mansion of the Hotel de Sens (spot the cannonball lodged in the facade!) and the remains of the old walls that once surrounded the city, now sitting serenely alongside a basketball court!
📍 Metro: Saint-Paul
6. Skyline Views & Local Life: Belleville (10th/19th/20th Arr.)
If you want a winter stroll that feels truly off the beaten path, head to Belleville — a neighbourhood where Paris’s creative energy hums beneath the surface. Hilltop streets, artist studios, independant boutiques and galleries, a plethora of street art (check out rue Denoyez) and some of the city’s most eclectic food spots make this an unexpected but rewarding winter wander.
Start south of Belleville metro around rue Sainte-Marthe, a tiny, colourful street street lined with workshops and small boutiques — perfect for picking up handmade souvenirs from local creators. Local galleries in the area often host contemporary exhibitions worth popping into between shopping stops.
Foodies will love Belleville’s global flavours. For morning cofféé, try La Fontaine de Belleville (also good for jazz nights!) If you're there around lunchtime head to rue de Belleville for fragrant Chinese, Vietnamese, and North African eateries (if there's a line, it's good!) We particularly like Raviolis du Nord Est for dumplings and La Tour de Belleville for great hand pulled noodles. If you're a wine lover, don't miss La Cave de Belleville, a neighbourhood favourite for natural wines and charcuterie.
Keep walking up towards Pyrenées and then on to Jourdain (known locally as the village), for some window shopping and a stroll through a real local Parisian neighbourhood, rarely visited by tourists. We recommend checking out the side streets, particularly the lovely rue de la Villette for some gorgeous local boutiques.
Alternatively, climb toward the heights of Parc de Belleville for one of the best panoramic views of Paris — especially atmospheric in the early dusk of winter, when the city lights flicker below. It’s the perfect final stop for a neighbourhood that always feels energetic, authentic, and full of surprises.
📍 Metro: Belleville and walk up or Jourdain and walk down!
Exploring Paris beyond the classic Christmas landmarks reveals a city full of warmth, character, and unexpected charm. From the designer ateliers of the Haut Marais to the bohemian streets of Belleville, the village feel of Batignolles, and the hilltop magic of Montmartre, each neighbourhood offers its own festive spirit — quieter, more intimate, and deeply local. Whether you’re hunting for unique gifts, warming up over vin chaud, or simply soaking in the winter atmosphere, these strolls invite you to experience the holidays the way Parisians truly live them. And if you’d like to uncover even more hidden gems this season, we’d be delighted to show you around on one of our guided tours. Paris is full of stories — come walk through them with us.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read our blog! We are a small Paris-based tour company that prioritises a boutique personal experience where we can share our passion for our heritage and community with every individual that joins us. If you'd like to take a tour then head over to our website for an unforgettable trip to the city of lights. Also, check out our social media @memories.france for everything you could need to know for coming to Paris: from how to use the metro to coffee shops closest to each major monument, there is something for everyone!
Siobhan & the Memories France Family
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